Contents	chapter
Index	1
A Typical Rink (Fig 1)	2
Some thoughts for the Lead	3
Bowling the Jack The First End	4
Finding the Line & Length Fig 2	5
Successive Ends	6
Some thoughts for the *Two*	7
Some thoughts for the *Three*	8
Some Thoughts for the *Skip*	9
Some thoughts for the *Team*	10
Bowls Markings	11

Chapter 2     A typical Rink



Chapter 3                    SOME THOUGHTS FOR THE LEAD

TRIAL ENDS.

At the beginning of a game two non-scoring ends are usually played. These are called Trial Ends and it is important that as much information as possible be obtained from them. Does the Jack run true? (The Jack is sometimes called the Kitty) Does it bounce up and down on hidden ridges? When you bowl your Bowl - what sort of green is required to reach the jack? How heavy, or fast is the green? Does it bowl the same on each hand and in each direction?

Do not be put off by the sort of comment, "I only try for the length at trial ends" or "I don't want to give too much away [to the opposition]" These are usually excuses for poor efforts. Really concentrate to find your line and length.

I find it helps if you stand behind another bowler and visualise the line and the focal spot you would take if you were bowling [have a look at Fig2 - point A or (a)] watch to see if their bowl goes over the spot you have picked out and see if it was successful. If their bowl goes narrow and was inside the line you had anticipated, you know you were nearer than they were (theoretically anyway) - then try it for yourself.

You will sometimes hear the phrase, "The line is in the eye and the length is in the mind" and it's true! You know where the jack is, so concentrate on bowling your bowl over the spot you have identified. If you line this spot up with an object on the far bank it will help you find it again next time.

People will tell you that their bowls bowl a lot different for this and that reason - broadly speaking this is not true; the main difference in the line of the bowl is that some have a smaller amount of bias - often called narrow line bowls - which tend to run straighter than the normal, standard bias. Otherwise, despite the size and weight differences they will generally follow a similar line.

SETTING THE MAT.

For the first end in a game The Lead places the centre line of the mat lengthwise on the centre line of the rink not less than 2m. from the rear ditch and not less than 25m. from the front ditch. If you face the Number at the centre of the rink you are playing on and triangulate the mat with the lane corner markers, you are more likely to get it centred correctly the first time.

For the Trial ends it is usual to use the full length of the rink. The 2m.measuring rod is there to help you set the minimum distance from the ditch and to set the maximum distance of the jack should it be necessary.

It is important that you bowl the Jack, if you just chuck it down you learn nothing about the green. It will help if you bowl it to a particular spot - usually the Skip will indicate by standing where he/she wants it delivered to. If they don't, pick a spot yourself and concentrate on delivering the jack to that length, it will help you deliver your bowl to the same length. Bear in mind that setting the length of the jack is part of the tactics of the game.

Chapter 4 BOWLING THE JACK

POSITIONING THE JACK

Direct the Skip to position the jack centrally by indicating the approximate distance and direction that the jack is to be moved. A good way to do this is to hold your hands apart by the distance that you see the jack to be off centre. Holding them to one side or the other to indicate the direction required. Keep your hands away from your face, they are difficult to see at a distance; chest height is about right. A great deal of time is wasted by Skips having to guess the amount of correction needed because the Lead doesn't signal properly. Take pride in bowling the jack to the exact length and the centre of the green.

NB. The same technique can be used by Skips if the Mat is not centred properly to indicate to the Lead the corrections needed.

Chapter 5 LINE & LENGTH (See also Chapter 5b)

The relative positions of the points marked C will vary from green to green, and sometimes from end to end. Other factors such as the wind, the length of the grass and the general condition of the Green can also make a difference. Even the amount of sunshine - where strong shadows are across the green can affect the line. The difference between wet and dry conditions can also have an effect on the amount of effort required to find the line and get the bowl to the Jack. These are some of the variables that make the game so interesting.

Note: It will help the new bowler to consider the way they grip the bowl. It is a good idea to use the bowl grips to maintain a consistent hold - If you always make sure that your first (or second) finger and your little (or third) finger * are located in a grip indentation with your thumb in or near an upper indentation, you will help to minimise one of the many variables. This will help to ensure that the bowl goes along the line you have decided.

* depends on whether you are using the Claw grip or the (Cradle grip)

Chapter 5b LINE & LENGTH Cont'd

NOT TO SCALE

Chapter 6 SUCCESSIVE ENDS

The Lead should choose the mat position to ensure that the area in front of the mat is smooth. A rough patch of grass where the bowl is grassed can loose a foot or more of length, especially on a slow green. *

If the Skip wants the mat brought up the green he will indicate to the Lead the required distance, usually by beckoning. He will also assist in aligning the mat down the centre of the Green. Unless the Skip particularly directs otherwise, it is customary for the Lead to choose the hand (ie. forehand or backhand) he or she, wishes to bowl on.

Having established the green and length required, i.e. the 'good hand', that hand should be maintained. If the opponent drops short on that hand, don't be driven to the other hand, play as if it were not there unless directed otherwise by the Skip. Avoid random changes of length and do not attempt to knock the opponent off the jack.

It's a great help to the team if a standard medium length can be established quickly, it helps everyone to settle down. Big changes in the Jack length are to be avoided; they tend to make it difficult for both sides. The Skip will tell you if he wants a tactical change in length.

A good Lead can make the game and becomes the focal point of the team. Their accurate first and/or second bowl, puts the opposition on the defensive and imbues confidence in their team.

At the completion of each end the 'winning Lead' should get the mat and position it, whilst the rest of the team are retrieving the bowls. On rinks, this can save about 20 minutes overall in the course of the game. An important factor when the light is fading.

* The speed of a green is defined as the time it takes for a bowl to draw to a full length jack. If the bowl takes a wide swing it is deemed a fast green (even thought it takes longer to get there) If the bowl takes a narrow line it is termed a slow green although it takes less time to get there. Typically a fast green has a running time of about 15-17 seconds, whereas a slow one may be only about 10- 12 seconds.

Chapter 7. SOME THOUGHTS FOR THE TWO

Playing Two is often thought to be the place for the Learner. Far from it, whilst it is true that in friendly games it is often the position where the beginner is placed, so that he can be advised by the Skip which hand to play on; it must never be forgotten that in League and other serious games, the Two is a vital position.

THE MAIN TASK

The Two must be able to draw accurately on either hand. Recognise the difficulties that may occur with a particular hand and still be able to bowl a decisive wood to the position indicated by the Skip. It is very important that if the Lead gets it wrong, the Two must become the second Lead and bowl to the jack for shot wood and not try to run the jack. A good Skip will not ask for, nor permit it but will require the Two to concentrate on building the head so that the Three and the Skip will have something to work on. This puts pressure on the Two to get it right.

DUTIES

The Two must keep the scorecard up to date and in home matches he is also responsible for posting the score at every second end and if used, the Main score board, every five ends. The Two should regularly consult with their opposite number to ensure that their respective scores tally correctly. In Triples the Skip usually keeps the score card - the Lead's and Two's have enough to do kicking the bowls back and determining the Shot/s etc.

MUST NOT DO
The Two must not signal to the Skip* nor advise the Lead which hand to play on. It is very important that the Two does not bowl short, because it could block the Three's shot. Neither should they be too long. Never play a shot not asked for by the Skip. Never ask or look for a Drive.

* (Except in a Triples game - where the Two effectively takes over the responsibilities of the Three in a Fours game)

Chapter 8. SOME THOUGHTS FOR THE THREE

The Three's primary objective is to get that 'critical, positional or saving shot' for the side, not to gamble on the assumption that the Skip will get it. Do not give any directions, except to indicate the length of the shot, unless the head has been disturbed or altered, by an opponent's bowl or the Three is asked a question by the Skip.

Give clear, precise information with, if necessary, a recommended shot. Try to avoid alternatives, they nearly always confuse. Be positive, pointing vaguely in the direction of the bowls is not sufficient for identification. It is better to almost touch the bowl/s especially if there are several close together; remember the Skip may be over 30 metres away. When the end is completed, the Three should agree with the opposing Three, the number of shots scored.

MUST NOT DO Only if there is a dispute are the Skips called up to adjudicate.

Advice' shouted to the Skip, especially negative advice - like "Don't be short" or "don't do this or that" can be disastrous. When the Skip has just left the head having decided what is required, any advice from then on is usually counter-productive. If the Skip is about to bowl, don't say or indicate anything. Quiet competence in a Three is essential. Don't fight the Skip or force conflicting views. Do not urge the other players to do anything contrary to the directions of the Skip. Upsetting the Skip and then expecting him to save the end is unrealistic. The Skip has built up the head and even if six down and knows it, if the shot played is different to the views of the Three or others - nobody has the right to object. Cross-purposes are reflected in the score and help no one, except the opposition.

Chapter 9. SOME THOUGHTS FOR THE SKIP

The Skip is the Leader of the team and as such should give clear, concise directions to build up the head. Talk up to the team; it's no good addressing the ground or the back of the rink and expecting them to hear what's said. Shouting in this manner is unnecessary and can upset adjacent rinks. Remember, your team want to win just as much as you do and expects you to guide and inform them. This does not mean that something has to be said after each and every bowl. A good Skip achieves success through his team, not necessarily through his own prowess.

At the beginning of the game the Skip should introduce their team to the opposing team. If not already decided, he will toss up for the mat. When the Lead has delivered the Jack the Skip will position it on the centre line.

If the Skip allows the Lead to choose their own length, they should ensure the length is consistent and is providing their team with a competitive edge. A medium length will provide a winning opponent the least scope to change length for the ensuing end. The Skip does not necessarily have to be the best bowler in the team, however the Skip must be able to play the full repertoire of shots, be confident and decisive.

If anything is said it must always be Positive. Negative instructions produce negative results. The Skip should never stand with hands in pockets; it gives the team an impression of indifference. Positive, interested body language is far more effective. Encourage, cajole, persuade, inspire, but never abuse, by word or gesture. Persistent running down the green after the bowl is neither good for the green nor good for the game and makes not the slightest difference to the result. It can be construed as an aggressive expression of self importance and should be avoided.

All players, including Skips, put down a bad bowl sometimes and the last thing any member of the team needs to be told afterwards, is that they need to take more, or less, green - it's almost always very obvious. However, it can help, to indicate the amount the bowl is short, or long.

This does not mean that a beginner should be denied any help in finding their green before they bowl or not be encouraged to add, or subtract, a metre or two. You may indicate the Green with your foot but not leave it in place as a target whilst they are bowling.

There is no reason why the Skip should not ask the less experienced player, to play a specific shot (you can be quite detailed). To assume they can't do it is to deny them the chance to find out if they can. It can focus the player's attention and produce an excellent shot - moreover, it enhances their self confidence. It doesn't hurt the more experienced player either.

The Skip should keep the team informed as to the state of the head and commend good play. If the play is bad, saying so will not improve it. Good humoured and positive encouragement may do so. The Skip should acknowledge careful attempts at playing as directed, particularly when those attempts produce favourable results.

The Skip should avoid any temptation to offer undeserved praise. A draw to the jack that finishes over two metres past it is a poor attempt by most criteria and undeserving of praise, furthermore such blandishments belittle the genuine praise. It is also good etiquette to recognise the good shots of the opponents - without going overboard about it.

Chapter 10. SOME THOUGHTS FOR THE TEAM

Generally the players at the delivery mat end should stand wherever possible, at a distance approximately 2m away from and behind the mat. Those at the head must not move when a player is about to bowl their bowl. They should stand at least 2m behind the jack and away from the head. In cases where there is little stand-off room at the head, make sure you are well clear of the object bowl or jack, whilst a bowl is being delivered.

When you have played your own bowl, do not remain standing on the mat or follow your bowl with the object of obstructing your opponent's view of the run of the bowl. Nor impeding them from taking their shot. Once your bowl has reached the head the mat belongs to your opponent. It is bad sportsmanship to talk intrusively whilst they are delivering their bowl. When crossing from one end of the rink to the other, refrain from crossing onto the adjoining rink and be mindful of the players on that rink. Do not argue with the Skip about the shot to be played; wait until you are asked before expressing an opinion.

If you are the Lead or the Second and the Skip asks a question concerning the head–do not butt in, the Three will answer. If you are their Skip, do not interfere with the Three's when they are determining the shot bowl. It is their job and only when they cannot agree do the two Skips intervene.

If you are playing Rinks and are playing Three's -Up, the Skip must never allow the situation to develop where the Three is trying to do his/her job either verbally or by signals. Conflicting information will confuse and dishearten the team and encourage the opposition.

It is good manners to commend a good bowl from your opponent and also to concede a fluke in good spirit.

Chapter 11 BOWLS STAMPS

See also www.worldbowlsltd.co.uk and/or www.bowlsengland.com for more information.

Bowls: World Bowls Stamp

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Licensed Manufacturers and Licensed Testers are entitled to imprint the registered World Bowls Stamp within the inner and outer rings of the bowl. Imprints on the running surfaces of bowls should be avoided wherever possible.

The current World Bowls Stamp.

	A Is the code letter of the Licensed Manufacturer or Tester.
	R Shows that the stamp is a registered trade mark
	13 Shows the year of registration( in this case, 2013)
	WB World Bowls Stamp

The current World Bowls Stamp was introduced on 1 April 2002 and should be used on all new and re-tested bowls from that date. Both the International Bowling Board (IBB) and the World Bowls Board (WBB) stamps, which were used before the current World Bowls Stamp, will be valid until the end of the year that the stamp expires. (For example, the stamp in the above illustration would not be valid after 31 December 2013)

If bowls are imprinted with the registered World Bowls Stamp and are in line with the Laws of the Sport of Bowls in all other ways, they can be used in all games under the control of WB or any Member National Authority.